
Gullible's Travels
Alto Adige Wine Tasting Dinner at Enoteca Turi
Another fine eating and drinking experience at
Enoteca Turi. This time the wines were presented not by Giuseppe Turi but a guest speaker: Tom Harrow from
A Moveable Feast. We had the pleasure of him at our table so we not only got the speechy bits but more background as we ate and chatted.
Stuzzichini Tastes from Alto Adige Canapes
Muller Thurgau DOC Borgo del Posseri 2006*
Carne salata con barbabietole rosse e cren Salad of salted beef, roasted beetroot, horseradish sauce
Gewurztraminer Kolbenhof DOC Hofstatter 2006*
Canederli con speck e crauti Canederli with speck, home made sourkraut
Teroldego Rotaliano DOC Dorigati 2005
Lagrein Riserva DOC Steinraffler 2001*
Filetto di cervo con tre polente, radici di stagione e funghi di bosco Venison fillet, three polentas (buckwheat, plain, potato) roasted baby root vegetables, mushroom sauce
Barthenau Vigna S Urbano DOC Hofstatter 2002
San Leonardo Vallagarina DOC 1999*
Strudel di mele Apple strudel with cinnamon, pine nuts, raisins, rum
Moscato Rosa DOC Elena Walch 2004*
Coffee and fried pastries
My favourites were the Gewurztraminer, a powerful wine at 15% in a sweet Alsace style, and the Vigna S Urbano, which had the lovely strawberry nose of a mature pinot. However when we ate the food the San Leonardo and it swapped places. The SL was a bit chewy on its own but came into its own with the food - very much a food wine. For those who like to know prices they were:
1. Muller Thurgau DOC Borgo dei Posseri 2006 £13.00
2. Gewurztraminer Kolbenhof DOC Hofstatter 2006 £22.50
3. Teroldego Rotaliano DOC Dorigati 2005 £9.50
4. Lagrein Riserva DOC Steinraffler 2001 £22.00
5. Barthenau Vigna S Urbano DOC Hofstatter 2002 £37.00
6. San Leonardo Vallagarina DOC 1999 £37.00
7. Moscato Rosa DOC Elena Walch 2004 (37.5 cl) £20.00
All available, of course, from
A Moveable Feast.
Labels: restaurants, wine
Italian Wine Tasting at Charteris Wine Society
More specifically wines from
The Wine Society presented by Nicolas Belfrage MW, an Italian wine specialist who helps the Society select their Italian range. We used "The Society's Guide to Italy" written by Nicolas as our agenda working through all 10 wines, two whites then the reds working North to South:
White wines • Coffele Soave Classico, 2006
• Le Giuncare Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva, 2004 (Monte Schiavo)
The North East • Boglietti Barbera d'Alba, 2006
• Pio Cesare Nebbiolo d'Alba, 2004
The North West • Hofstatter Pinot Nero Riserva, 2002
• Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Allegrini, 2001
Central Italy • Poggiopiano Chianti Classico, 2004
• Flaccianello della Pieve, IGT Toscana, Fontodi, 2004
Southern Italy • Agliancio del Vulture DOC 'Armand', 2001
• Brindisi Rosso, Vigna Flaminio, 2004 (Vallone)
Of the whites I preferred the the Soave to the Verdecchio although the latter cost 50% more, and I was not alone there.
Not surprisingly my fave was the Amarone (gobs of fruit to use a Robert Parker-ism) but the Flaccianello, which was a new one on me, was right up there with it. The latter is a
Super Tuscan and at GBP 32 and 33 respectively there was a gnats whisker between them in price and quality although the Amarone got my vote. However for that price I could drink four bottles of the Chianti Classico - hmmm, tough call!
Working North to South was a bit unfair on our chosen alternative homeland of Puglia. The last two were perfectly OK drinking wines but at GBP 5.95 the poor old Brindisi Rosso trailed home after the two Tuscans. However I still preferred both of the Southern reds to either the Nebbiolo or the Pinot Nero.
All in all another interesting and educational tasting.
Labels: wine
Leoville-Barton Dinner Party
Saturday night we had a most successful dinner party, though we say it ourselves. Guests Bron&Maggie and Paul&Siobhan seemed to enjoy themselves.
We usually have a theme like "
what we learned on the cookery school". This time it was a double theme: "a vertical tasting of Leoville-Barton" and "recipes from South Africa".
The starter and main course were out of
The Collection Cookbook and the Tiramisu ice-cream recipe was from the chef at the
Makanyane Game Lodge.
Leoville-Barton '82, '85, '89 and '95Youngest to oldest:
'95 was fine but all agreed a little more cellaring would be good.
'89 was my favourite for balance of fruit and tannins.
'85 was second favorite but, by the end of the evening, had nudged ahead to first place.
'82 was a little faded. To my TCA sensitive palette there was a distinct whiff of
cork taint.
And the Recioto di Soave with the dessert was perfect :-)
Labels: wine
Think of the Money We Saved
Last year we (Mary really) invested in a case of the 2001
Chateau d'Yquem from
Berry Bros & Rudd. BBR wrote to us recently saying that
Robert Parker has now awarded it his top mark of 100/100. That guarantees it will fly off the shelves and our investment will hold its value. BBR's write-up:
2001 Yquem is one of the best wines this exalted estate has ever made and has been awarded the 'perfect' score by ourselves and Robert Parker alike. This is breathtakingly complex, with a vibrant perfume of crème brûlée, white peaches, apricots, mustard seed and gorgeous light new oak which heralds the most magnificent mouthfilling essence. With the texture of melted butter, it feels more fresh, zingy and exciting than any wine you can imagine. If the nose and the palate aren't enough to blow you away, the 30 minute (at least) after-taste is ethereal. This is already approachable, but if you don't get round to opening the bottle this year you could cellar it until 2100!
BBR Score: 20/20
Parker Score: 100/100BBR are offering a 20% discount if you buy 24 half bottles at a saving of GBP 1286.16. Yes, you did read that correctly a
*saving* of USD 2,600. So that's only GBP 260 per half bottle or 4,200 for a case of 24 halves (In Bond, you will still to pay Duty and VAT at some later date).
I am glad to say we did not pay that much but it never was going to be a cheap wine.
Labels: wine
Charteris Wine Tasting - ABC
No, not the usual "Anything But Chardonnay" but instead "Anything But Champagne". A seasonal tasting of sparkling wines from around the world to see who could give France a run for its money.
- Wine
- (Region, Country) Method
- Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Frizzante
- (Veneto, Italy) Tank
- Cremant de Luxembourg Riesling Cuvee de, l'Ecusson Brut
- (Luxembourg Moselle, Luxembourg) Traditionelle
- Sumarroca Extra Brut
- (Cava(Subirates), Spain) Traditionelle
- Pelorus, Vintage 2002
- (Cloudy Bay, Marlborough, New Zealand) Traditionelle
- Mumm Cuvee Napa Rose NV
- (California, USA) Traditionelle
- Chapel Down Century Extra Dry
- (Kent, England) Traditionelle
- Bleasdale Langhorne Creek Sparkling Shiraz
- (South Australia, Australia) Tank
- Perrone Moscato d'Asti
- (Asti, Piemonte, Italy) Tank
- Blanquette de Limoux
- (Limoux, France) Ancestrale
A tasting of two halves: dry sparkling, a half-time rosé and then the sweet sparkling. For me champagnes normally run from the crisp lemon end of the spectrum to the biscuity, yeasty end. These, oddly enough, all seemed to major on apple, with the odd hint of melon (Sumarroca) , lychee (Pelorus) or blackcurrant (Bleasdale).
My favourite of the first flight was the Cremant de Luxembourg and of the second the Chapel Down. Interesting since neither Luxembourg nor England are the obvious place to look for a good sparkling.
And as for the sparkling shiraz the kindest thing one could say is it was an interesting experiment but not one that should be repeated.
Labels: wine
The Chateau Climens Dinner
Another BBR extravagant wine dinner. Hosted by Oliver East, Bordeaux Buyer, Guest Speaker Bérénice Lurton, Owner.
Before we arrived we were thinking, like others, "Are they really going to serve a dessert wine with every course?" The answer was "Yes" and "Don't call it a dessert wine", says Bérénice, "it is a sweet wine".
- Berrys' UKC Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Le Mesnil
-
- 2004 Cypres de Ch. Climens, Barsac
- Lobster bisque - with lobster beignets & chervil oil
- 2004 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac
- Ballotine of foie gras with Sauternes caviar jelly & crisp bread
- 2000 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac
1996 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac - Gallotine of quail in pistachio & truffle mousse & sauce Marsala
- 1990 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac
- Roquefort
- 1977 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac
- Vanilla mille feuille with caramelised pear
- Berrvs' selected coffee and chocolates
-
The 2004 Cypres, their second wine, was warm, light and fruity with a hint of mushroom on the nose. An interesting contrast to the Climens '04 which was darker and heavier and sharper showing the acid that would help it age.
The 2000 was fresh and light and very enjoyable. Not so the '96 which was distinctly musty on the nose with hint of white spirit and not as sharp as the '00. Others thought so too and they changed the bottle and brought us fresh glasses. The '90 was excellent with a "brisk" flavour and a lovely golden colour.
The '77 again had a hint of mustiness, not so much "noble rot" as plain rot, a disappointing final wine. I don't think this dinner showed the Chateau to best advantage.
Some years back we bought a half case of the 1990 and are down to our last bottle with nary a duff bottle so this will not put us off the chateau - just be more careful in our choice of vintage.
Labels: wine
Barbera Wine Dinner at Enoteca Turi
Another fine wining and dining experience at Enoteca Turi
* this time wines from Piedmont made with the Barbera grape. Interesting to revisit this region so soon after the
BBR Tuscany vs Piedmont dinner. Same region, different grape, different price range.
One interesting thing I am (finally) starting to get is distinguishing between my personal preference and which I think is the better wine. In this case I liked the Barbera d'Alba Marun DOC 2003 best for drinking - lots of jammy fruit flavours - but the Barbera d'Asti Superiore DOC 2001 was - in my view - the better wine with aging potential.
- Assaggi Piemontesi
(Traditional Piedmontese antipasti) - Arneis Roero DOC 2006 Brovia
- Anatra in verza con fonduta
(Duck cooked in cabbage leaves with fonduta) - Barbera d'Alba DOC 2005 Giuseppe Rinaldi
- Agnolotti del plin
(Piedmontese veal and spinach ravioli with butter and sage) - Barbera d'Alba Marun DOC 2003 Matteo Correggia
- Filetto di cervo con porcini e polenta
(Fillet of venison, porcini mushrooms and fried polenta, juniper berry sauce) - Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia DOC 2002 Giacomo Conterno
Barbera d'Asti Superiore DOC 2001 La Spinetta
- Formaggi regionali
(Selection of the region's cheeses) - Pin Monferrato Rosso DOC 2003 La Spinetta
- Torta Gianduia
(Typical Piedmont hazelnut and chocolate tart) - Barbera Passum DOC 2003 Cascina Castlet
Coffee
The Barbera Passum DOC 2003 was a little disappointing but it *was* up against a seriously chocolatey dessert. Something with more "
passito" character might have held its ground better.
* Previously at Enoteca Turi: "
Food and Wine from the Sicily Region"
Labels: restaurants, wine
Wines of Paul Cluver at Planet of the Grapes
Another interesting tasting at
Planet of the Grapes. This time South African wines from
Paul Cluver presented by their wine maker, Andries Berger. Always fascinating to hear direct from the winemaker rather than someone in the trade.
Andries is a man committed to his wines and aiming for an old world subtlety and complexity. The audience seemed to shared his belief that he has succeeded. To my palette the Chardonnay had a particularly Burgundian feel to it. He even managed to make an enjoyable wine out Sauvingnon Blanc, of one of my least favourite varietals.
• Sauvignon Blanc 2006
• Weisser Riesling 2007
• Gewurtztraminer 2005
• Chardonnay 2006
• Pinot Noir 2004
• The Elgin Blend 2003
• Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
• Weisser Riesling Noble Late Harvest 2006
There is always something new to learn about winemaking and this time it was Andries talking about "
batonage" - hand stirring of the lees while the wine is aging. This apparently adds complexity to the wines and scavenges oxygen, reducing the risk of unwanted oxidation.
We were impressed by the wines and have ordered 6 of the Chardonnay and 6 of the Cabernet Sauvignon - which will certainly reward a few years cellaring.
Labels: wine
BBR Dinner: The Great Wines of Italy, Tuscany vs Piedmont
More eating and drinking...
Lots of top notch wines. I wish I could remember more of the fascinating info from the chat by Chris Pollington, the man knows his stuff.
All I can remember is the Tuscans use the Sangiovese grape and eat beans, the Piedmontese use Nebbiolo and eat rice. The staff would keep topping up my glass and I did not say no often enough. I was struggling to keep my eyes open by the end. Oh dear :-(
- Aperitivo
- 2006 Gavi di Gavi, Cru La Maddelena, Roberto Sarotto, Piedmont
- Bresaola con Rucola e Parmigiano
(Shaved bresaola with wild rocket & parmesan) - 2005 Chianti Classico, 'Rubiolo', Gagliole, Castellina-in-Chianti, Tuscany
- Un' selezione di funghi di bosco
(A tasting of Italian mushrooms & funghi) - 2001 Barbaresco, Cru Vigna Erte, Cigliuti, Neive, Piedmont
- Abbachio a la Romana con polenta e pomodorini secchi
(Roast lamb with rosemary, polenta & cotifit tomatoes) - 1994 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Ugolaia, Lisini, Tuscany
2000 Barolo, Cru Monprivato, Giuseppe Mascarello, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont - Formaggio
(cheese) Pecorino - 2004 IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale, Pecchia, Gagliole, Castellina-in-Chianti, Tuscany
- Torta di mele con gelato di Mascarpone
(Apple tarte fine with Mascarpone ice cream) - 2005 Moscato d'Asti, Bass Tuba, Bava, Piedmont
- Berrys' selected coffee & chocolate
Labels: wine
Loire Wine Tasting at Charteris Wine Society
Another fine wine tasting at the Charteris Wine Society excellently chosen by Charles and co-presented by Jeremy. In fact, I would say, their best yet. A good wine tasting has a theme and structure, this had several:
- Firstly of course the river. A tour upstream and then back down showing the river's wide range of grapes and styles.
- Secondly the "dinner party" sequence: dry 'aperitif' white, full 'food' white, light red, full bodied red, sweet white (but no room for the sweet red).
- Thirdly several wines were in pairs to allow a compare-and-contrast learning.
- Fourthly all bar one readily available from the same merchant (The Wine Society) thus showing the Society to advantage.
The wines - grape variety:
- Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Le Clos du Château L'Oiselinière, 2002 (Chéreau-Carré) - muscadet
- Savennières, L'Enclos, 2004 (Eric Morgat) - chenin blanc
- Coteaux du Giennois, Domaine de Villargeau, 2006 (Marc Thibault) - sauvignon blanc
- Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy, 2004 - sauvignon blanc
- Sancerre Rosé, Domaine Serge Laloue, 2006 - pinot noir
- Côte Roannaise, Vieilles Vignes, 2006 (Sérol) - gamay
- St Nicolas de Bourgueil, Les Rouillères, 2005 (Frédéric Mabileau) - cabernet franc
- Chinon, Domain du Raifault, "Le Villy", Cuvee Prestige, 1995 - cabernet franc
- Coteaux de la Loire, Moelleux, Vieille Sève, 2004 (Alain Boré) - chenin blanc
- Vouvray, Clos du Bourg, Moelleux, 1989 (Huet) - chenin blanc
And what did I learn?
- The Loire produces an extraordinary range of wines.
- The Gamay grape used to be one of my favorites. Moulin a Vent was one of the wines that moved me into red. But now it has dropped off my radar as a wine of choice.
- Rose wine I have always said goes well with Salad Nicoise and Seafood paella. Now I will add Sushi to the list (after I have given it a try). And this rose is a particularly girlie pink colour.
- My tastes are predictable. Mary wrote on her list "Mark will like this" against the St Nicolas de Bourgueil. How right she was - jammy and full of fruit.
- In the sweetie shoot-out the less obvious but better wine did win. The Coteaux de la Loire was sweet and enjoyable but the Vouvray, Clos du Bourg, Moelleux was a far subtler and more complex wine. Quality will out, in the end.
Previously:
Labels: wine
Food and Wine from the Sicily Region
at
Enoteca Turi. This is a wonderful Puglian restaurant just down the road in Putney where we have eaten a couple of times previously.
This event was originally scheduled for Tuesday 11th September 2007. We tried to get in but it was fully booked and also it clashed with the Plant of The Grapes Rioja tasting. Because it was so popular Pam and Giuseppe decided to run a second event the following evening (last night).
MenuStuzzichini
Arancini di riso
Sardine beccafico
Primo sale with pacchino tomatoes
Mosciame di tonno
Barbazzale Inzolia IGT 2005 Cotta NeraLayers of aubergine with mozzarella and caciocavallo
Fatagione IGT 2003 Cotta NeraCuscusu Trapanese
Red mullet, gunnard and monkfish soup with saffron couscous
Chardonnay IGT 2005 Planeta Rabbit Stimpirata
Braised rabbit off the bone with onion, celery, olive, pine nuts and raisins
Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso DOC 2004 Tenuta delle Terre NereRosso del Conte 2003 Tasca d'AlmeritaCassata Siciliana with lemon sorbet
Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2004 SolideaCoffee
The food was excellent as was the company. We had a most enjoyable chat to complete strangers, Jo and Robin, and Liz and Jim. But then you would expect people who go to such events to be of a sociable disposition.
Giuseppe had done his homework and gave an introduction to Sicilian political and gastronomic history and again before each course told us a little more about the specific dish and wine. They have done six of these wine and food dinners. With 20 regions in Italy they are planning plenty more events - where do we sign?
Labels: food, restaurants, wine
Marques de Murrieta at Planet of the Grapes
Another tasting at Planet of the Grapes last night, this time Rioja.
Almost the same crew as last time: David, Bron, Paul and this time Mary was able to make it. Frans the Bodega's Export Director gave us a good insight into the estate, its history and the wines.
- Pazo Barrantes, Albarino D.O. Rias Baixas 2005 @ £13.50
- Blanco Reserva "Capellania" 2002 @ £12.50
- Tinto Reserva 2002 @ £.50
- Tinto Reserva 2001 @ £14.50
- Tinto Gran Reserva Special Release (Magnum) 1980 @ £115
- Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 1998 @ £33
- Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Historic Release 1978 @ £80
- Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Historic Release 1968 price N/A
- Dalmau 2001 @ £50
It was fascinating to do a vertical tasting for a change and going back so far with wines not available in the shops. As often I was in a minority regards which were the better wines. Mary reckons it is not because of any deficiency in my palate rather that it is my personal preference for jammy flavours.
Labels: wine
Austrian Wine Tasting at Charteris Wine Society
Another interesting tasting at the Charteris Wine Society, this time Austrian wines. It is always good to try something different and expand one's wine horizon. This time the wines were ably presented by Christian Malnig of
Kipferl, an Austrian Deli just around the corner at 70 Long Lane, London EC1A 9EJ.
I did not know the Gruner Veltliner grape but it seems Austria grows a lot of indigenous varieties and this is the most popular accounting for 36% of the nation's production. Very enjoyable and comparable to the best of Alsace varietals any day. Also it is a nation of small producers; the average grower has a mere 3 hectares!
Christian dealt with the high volume of chatter but doing not so much presenting standing at the front but more visiting each table in turn for a sit down chat. That worked well, especially as the individual attention meant we could ask specific questions.
He and his wife also presented us with platters of Austrian meats and, for the sweet wines, various delicious pastries.
- Notes
- C: colour; N: nose; P: palette; ** = favourite; -- = not favourite
- Whites
- Gruner Veltliner Alte Reuben, Selection, Weixelbaum 2005 (GBP 8.99) **
- C: mid-yellow; N: peppery / spicy; P rich complex, unctuous, steely aftertaste, bit of acid tingle. My favourite and that of several others.
- Gruner Veltliner Seeberg, Matthias Hager, Kamtal 2004 (GBP 14.49)
- C: darker yellow; N; Kiwi fruit; P: not as unctuous, smokey
- Reisling Reid Gaisberg, Wahre Werte, Weixelbaum 2005 (GBP 10.49) **
- C: yellow; N; powerfiul; P: sweetish Alsace style
- Rotgipfler Privat, Schaflerhof, Thermenregion 2005 (GBP 8.49) --
- N; very little; P slightly hollow, some grip.
- Scheurebe (Samling 88), Stefan Potzinger, Sudsteiermark 2006 (GBP 9.98)
- C: vary pale; N: v fragrant, lime-green (SB-like); P: tart apple / unripe melon
- Red
- Blauer Zweigelt, Daniel Jaunegg, Sudsteiermark 2005 (GBP 8.98)
- C: purple: N: sour cherry; P: merlot-like, redcurrant / raspberry
- Sweet white wines
- Traminer, Stefan Potzinger, Sudsteiermark 2003 (GBP 12.49) ** ½
- C: deep yellow; N: pungent / sour; P: sweet yet tangy (good with strudel)
- Ziefandler Beerenauslese, Beigler, Gumpoldskirchen 2003 (375cl - GBP 12.49) ***
- C: Golden yellow; N: honey, peach; P: very ripe pineapple, sui generis, my kind of wine <G>
Labels: wine
Charity Double Header
Sunday was all a bit hectic as we had signed up for the Stroke Association's Thames Bridges Bike Ride
* and then Oddbins announced their annual wine fair
** (all proceeds to charity) for the same weekend! What to do? Forget the bike ride? Start and wimp out halfway through? In the end Mary had a stroke of logistical genius: activate the
Emergency Drinking Trousers (pat pending). So this it how it went:
Thames Bridges Bike Ride: Sunday morning we got up early so we could cycle to Clapham, got the train to Waterloo and cycled to the start line at Tower Bridge in order to be first away over the line at 8 o'clock. We were in the very first batch. We then cycled 32 miles over 16 bridges in 3 hours dead arriving at Hampton Court at 11:00.
Intermission: We then caught the 11:35 to Waterloo where we chained up our bikes on platform 16 and changed into our day clothes in the public loos. Lunch was a sandwich on the train. Hopped into a taxi and off to the Design Centre, Islington.
Oddbin's Wine Fair: As usual we started with champagnes; tasted about 17 and the Billecart-Salmon was this year's NV winner with an honourable mention for the Charles Lafitte. I cannot find my notes so cannot recall which was the vintage winner - ah found them - the Veuve Clicquot.
We then attended a master class on New Zealand Pinot Noir. Very educational and the best of the bunch was the Murdoch James "Fraser" Martinborough 2004. The rest of the afternoon tasting at will until it was time to stagger home with out friend John. Though, truth to tell, he was staggering more then we were!
* Previously:
Got the T-shirt In Training for Charity Bike Ride 2 In Training for Charity Bike Ride ** Previously:
"
Oddbin's Wine Fair 2006"
"
Drinking for charity - It's a dirty job but..." (2004)
"
Amethystos (under the counter)" (2005).
Labels: cycling, wine
The First Growths Tutored Tasting
Monday night was an extravagant tasting at
BBR: eight first growth clarets.
To quote the BBR website,
"Technically the term 'First Growth' should only be applied to the properties identified as such in the famous 1855 Classification of the Médoc, namely Châteaux Lafite, Latour, Margaux and Haut-Brion, subsequently joined in 1973 by Ch. Mouton-Rothschild. However, as the title is synonymous with the apogee of excellence in Bordeaux, we will use the term more informally here to include the other truly great names of Bordeaux - Châteaux Cheval Blanc, Ausone and Pétrus - which are felt to be unequivocally of First Growth quality.
Mark Pardoe MW will discuss each property in turn, explaining and unravelling the nuances that distinguish each of the First Growths from one another, while illuminating the intrinsic seam of quality that runs through all these eight great wines. The wines will all be from 2002, thereby filleting the distractions of vintage variation and also allowing some contemplation of this fine and classic year which deserves greater credit and admiration.
After a delicious aperitif of vintage Champagne, you will be guided through the following wines, served alongside a selection of cheese and canapés:"These were the wines and my notes on the 'nose' (wine speak for 'smell'):
Wine 1: 2002 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St Emilion - soft cherry, bonfire.
Wine 2: 2002 Ch. Ausone, St Emilion - purple, blackcurrent, woody root / leaf.
Wine 3: 2002 Ch. Pétrus, Pomerol - clean, redcurrant, chocolate, vanilla.
Wine 4: 2002 Ch. Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan - cooler/warmer?, murky.
Wine 5: 2002 Ch. Margaux, Margaux - tall green (grassy) fruit, warm.
Wine 6: 2002 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac - redcurrant, sweet.
Wine 7: 2002 Ch. Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac - mushroom, cheese, soap.
Wine 8: 2002 Ch. Latour, Pauillac - clean deep fruit, cajun spices, coffee, deep.
My fave was the Latour (concentrated, stunning, "gobs of fruit") followed by the Cheval Blanc with the Margaux and Mouton-Rothschild in 3rd and 4th place. My least favourite was the Haut-Brion (muddied, not clean). As Bron observed I am in alignment with
Mr Parker's ratings as regards best and worst in this group though I can safely say my palette is not up to Parker's standard.
The Petrus was the most complex on the nose but at GBP 750 a bottle (that is correct, not a typo, USD 1,490) I will not be rushing out to buy a bottle let alone a full case. A most educational tasting to confirm that we were well beyond my "
VFM" point of diminishing returns.
Labels: wine
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Fine Wine Tutored Tasting
I started out on burgundy...Last Thursday it was a walk-around tasting of burgundy in The Winery at Liberty. Can't be bothered to type up the full list of 14 wines, just my two favourites:
White: Monthélie Blanc 2002, Dubuet - grapefruit and tropical notes on the nose. (GBP 21.99)
Red: Gevrey-Chambertin "Aux Corvées" 2002, Richard - hints of chocolate on the nose and yummy palette heading towards the strawberry end of the soft fruit spectrum. (GBP 25.99)
Available from
http://www.thewineryuk.com/... but soon hit the harder stuff. *Last night it was a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Fine Wine Tutored Tasting at
BBR tutored by Simon Field MW, Rhone Buyer. Mary decided to drop out and have a quiet evening in. Instead I co-opted colleague and old friend Bron as last minute stand-in.
Wine 1: 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Ch la Nerthe
Wine 2: 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Domaine des Saumades
Wine 3: 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine des Sénéchaux
Wine 4: 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mourre des Perdix, Domaine de la Charbonnière
Wine 5: 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Réserve, Domaine de Pegau
Wine 6: 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée de Mon Aïeul, Pierre Usseglio
Wine 7: 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Prestige, Domaine Roger Sabon
Wine 8: 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Clos des Papes (en magnum)
Wine 9: 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Barbe Rac, Chapoutier (en magnum)
Wine 10: 1999 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Vieux Télégraphe
Wine 11: 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Ch de Rayas
Wine 12: 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Ch de Beaucastel
Bron says: "The whites were idiosyncratic, strong flavoured and not for wimps. The reds were uniformly good and showed the variety within the region. The '98s and '00s are for drinking now and over the next few years. The '99s and '03s definitely need cellaring a few more years."
Afterwards we dined at the
Criterion which apparently had a brief, unsuccessful period as a "Frankies" but is now back to its Marco Pierre White style brasserie. We went straight into the main course and split a half bottle - after all we didn't really need much more to drink! My Lamb cutlets were absolutely delicious as were the veg, especially the little roast potatoes. Service was fine. I can recommend and it is easy to find - on Piccadilly Circus right opposite the statue of Eros.
* Tom Thumb Blues by Bob Dylan
Labels: restaurants, wine
Vinosafe walk-in wine cellar, storage for 1,000 bottles
And the first item to go on eBay following the move is the wine cellar.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290087444276&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:UK:11Tomorrow three pieces of furniture go to the local auction house. At the weekend boxes of books will go to Oxfam and a big box of cat blankets and bowls will go to the
Battersea Dogs and Cats Home. It felt strange but calming to be scrubbing the litter trays so they could go to a good home.
This is the vinosafe in varying stages of dismantling ready for the move:

Labels: moving house, wine
Wines of Australia at Planet of the Grapes
Last week four of us "lads" from work went to a wine tasting at
Planet of the Grapes. A small but select crowd were present, a dozen all told including Matt and Marc from POTG and Chris the presenter. As Chris was a wine maker and the group was small we were able to have more of a conversation than a presentation which made for an interesting and informative evening.
The Tasmanian sparkling is a method champagnoise wine to rival the French. The Reisling too was very much in an old world style and the Virgilius Viognier stood out amongst the whites. Unfortunately it is too long now for me to recall a ranking amongst the reds.
Mary joined us at the end, after her Italian class had finished, and got to taste the reds left over from the "no shows". We all chatted some more, polished off what was left of the meats and cheeses, then got a black cab back to Wandsworth for a supernumery glass of red.
The Wines of Australia with Chris Unger
• Jansz 2001 - Tasmanian sparkling (GBP 16.50)
• Mesh - Eden Valley Reisling 2006 (GBP 14.50)
• Yalumba - The Virgilius Viognier Eden Valley 2004 (GBP 22.50)
• Brokenwood - ILR Semillon Hunter Valley 2001 (17.50)
• The Menzies Coonawarra Cabernet 2002 (GBP 22.50)
• Vasse Flix 'Heytesbury' Cabernet Margaret River 2002 (GBP 33.50)
• Yalumba Hand Picked Shiraz / Viognier Barossa (GBP 17.00)
• Langton's Yalumba The Octavius (GBP ???)
• Yalumba Dessert Muscat NV (GBP 9.50)
Labels: social, wine
Suitable for Vegetarians
I have friend, let's call her - say - Danielle Byrne, who is a vegetarian. On flights her veggie meal is usually accompanied by some kind of tisane or herbal infusion. Her reaction is along the lines of "What is this? Bring me red wine!" Just because one might be vegetarian that does not mean one is also
TT.
Last night I was finishing off a bottle of 2004 Saint Joseph when my attention wandered to the back label. There I spotted a large "V" and the legend "Suitable for Vegetarians". Phew. that's a relief then!
As if any dead animals went into the making of wine, honestly what an egregious bit of labelling. See also [
Full of Fruit Goodness]
Labels: observations, wine
Christmas wines
Having some time at home over the Christmas period gave Mary a chance to sort out the cellar. We had cases and cases of wine still its cardboard boxes. But no more! And all of this to make it easier to dig out some fine wines for Christmas; modesty prevents me from naming names and vintages.

We had my Mum and Dad over for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and had a fine old time. As always with them the meal is the entertainment with much chat and banter. Christmas Day we had goose at 5 o'clock and then we did succumb to "couch potato syndrome" and watched a DVD of the first 'Pirates of the Carribean' with Johnny Depp.
Labels: family, wine
Daffodil Dining Club at Le Gavroche (2006)
Yet again at this time of year we joined John Amiry and 80 or so like-minded
gourmands gourmets at the Michelin Starred "Le Gavroche" for a long lunch of the finest food and wine. We started at 12:30 and they chucked us out at 5:00.
- Les Vins
- Le Menu
- Chateau de Sours 2004 Bordeaux Blanc
- Coquilles St. Jacques Pochee Parfumee au Gingembre
- Carton Blanc 1998 Domaine Chandon de Briailles
- Gratin de Langoustines et Escargots au Persil et Pimet d 'Espelette
- Domaine Gavoty "Cuvee Clarendon" 2005 Cote de Provence
- Fricassee de St. Pierre façon Bouillabaisse
- Gewurztraminer "Blason de France Vendange Tardive" 1998 Leon Beyer
- Escalope de Foie Gras Chaud et Pastilla a la Cannelle
- Clos des Litanies 1996 Pomerol
- Noisette de Chevreuil a la Sauce Poivrade et Airelles
- Le Pinacle Syrah 2002 Domaine Sainte Rose
- Le Plateau de Fromages Affines
- Vin de Constance 2001 Klein Constantia
- Christmas Pudding
Cafe, Petits Fours et Mince Pies
They have learned from previous years and been more restrained on the wine pouring. Last year they topped up my white wine glasses so often on the earlier courses that by the time we got to the meat and red wines I was in no fit state to fully appreciate the quality of what I was consuming. This year there were more courses with matching wines but more restraint in the measures. I enjoyed the meal more and did not need to go for a siesta when we got home.
See previously:
Christmas Daffodil at Le Gavroche (2005)Daffodil Dining Club at Le GavrocheLabels: food, restaurants, social, wine
Oddbins Wine Fair 2006
It's that time of year again when we do the Oddbins Wine Fair
* with usual suspects Bob&Lynn. Yesterday we tasted 55 wines between 12 o'clock and 4 o'clock.
We did the usual champagnes before lunch (20 of them) and as always we taste in pairs and swap glasses. That way we get to "compare and contrast" two wines and also drink half the quantity than if we both tried both.
We started with an
NV shoot out then went onto the vintage and luxury cuvée and finished with a pair of rosé. The winner in the NV category was Tattinger for me and Bollinger for Mary. In the vintage category it was the Veuve Clicquot and the Moet Rosé was delicious.
My notes for the morning are cryptic and for the afternoon illegible.
Then back to Wandsworth for the first barbeque of the year in our new home. Unfortunately the rain meant we cooked under the parasol and dined indoors. Still it was a most enjoyable day and evening.
* See previously
"
Drinking for charity - It's a dirty job but..." (2004)
"
Amethystos (under the counter)" (2005).
Labels: wine
The Last Weekend
Completing the symmetry of
The Lost Weekend here is last weekend:
- Friday, 07 April 2006: Wine glasses
- We had Siobhan&Paul round for a DP which was an excuse to crack open a bottle or two (or four) of our finest wines:
• Grosset Watervale Reisling 2002
(aperitif)
• Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 1999
(roast asparagus, rocket, parmesan and balsamic vinegar)
• Cos d'Estournel 1990
(rack of lamb with herb crust)
• Cape Promise Private Reserve Noble Late Harvest Muscat / Chenin Blanc 2004
(mango lassi fool)
Of course that meant our finest glasses, the Riedel Vinum range. We couldn't really justify the hand blown Sommelier range. Different glasses for each wine, of course, which meant a pile of washing up on Saturday morning. These glasses do *not* go in the dishwasher, they get carefully washed and rinsed one at a time.
- Saturday, 08 April 2006: Winchester dining
- Saturday it was off to Winchester for supper at Barry&Sue's with Bob&Lynne. We went down by train and had a most enjoyable meal. At nine o'clock it was off to friends of Barry&Sue for more drinks at which point we wimped out, peeled off and caught the 21:18 back to London.
- Sunday, 09 April 2006: A day of rest, again
- Well mostly. A bit of DIY and micro gardening then the evening to relax.
Diary duty done again!
Labels: social, wine
Southern France: a new World of Wine
Yesterday was another tough night of eating and drinking in pursuance of our corporate mission - "To eat, drink and have a good time". Once again it was wine tasting at the Charteris Wine Society
* which Carolyn described as a wine society with a consultancy attached. Simon, the presenter, did well against the "
open outcry" style of discussion.
- Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine Clavel, Cascaille 2003 [GBP 6.95]
- Lots of comments around light tropical fruits
- Viognier, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Domaine Cazel Viel 2004 [GBP 7.99]
- More of an "old world" style with 30% new oak barrels
- Domaine Alquier Grand Blanc 2003 [GBP 12.95]
- Generally felt to be a bit flat and disappointing.
- Le Soula Blanc, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes 2002 (Gauby) [GBP 18.00]
- This had an extraordinary nose. All around the room aromatic, toasty suggestions were made like fennel, caraway, fresh baked bread. A big favourite with the crowd. I might be tempted to a bottle or two just out of interest but I am not sure it is full VFM
- Corbiere, Domaine du Trillol 2001 [GBP 6.25]
- Very sweet berry notes and not liked by most - except me
- Syrah, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Domaine Cazal Viel 2003 [GBP 7.99]
- Conversely this one I did not like as I felt it was lacking fruit but it was much favoured by the others
- Domaine de Perdiguier, Vin de Pay des Coteaux d'Ensurune 2000 [GBP 9.95]
- Lots of comments like "tarry", "licquorice", "jammy", "cedary"
- Cotes du Roussillon Village, Vielles Vignes 2001 (Gauby) [GBP 24.00]
- This was the dark one almost at the amarone / port level of intensity. Definitely one for the cheese board
Several memorable quotes from the evening stick in my mind:
"A bargain is something you don't want at a price you can't resist"
"A Dolly Parton of a wine"
and a sensible suggestion
"Drink less, spend more"
After all life *is* too short to drink bad wine.
* See also "
Wines from the Veneto" and "
New World versus Old"
Labels: wine
New World versus Old
A good wine tasting will have a theme to make it interesting and educational - be it 'vertical' (Vega Sicilia from the '80s and '90s), 'horizontal' (the 2004 vintage in Italy), 'varietal' (Rieslings from around the world), 'price' (supermarket reds for under a fiver), 'other' (bring something odd that the others might not have tried).
A popular theme is New World versus Old. Last night's tasting at the
Charteris Wine Society went one better: Bordeaux versus South Africa. The wines were supplied by
Virgin Wines and ably presented by the society's chairman, Jeremy. He knew his stuff but then so he should, he used to be a wine-buyer for
Sainsbury's. The wines were:
- Bordeaux
- South Africa
- Chateau de Roques Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc 2004
- Churchaven Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2004
- Sichel Rocherolles Rouge 2003
- Three Gables Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2004
- Chateau Macquin St Georges St Emilion 2002
- Radford Dale Merlot 2001/2002
- Chateau Maucaillou Cru Bourgeois 1993
- Rustenberg John X Merriman 2002
Worst of the night: the Sichel Rocherolles Rouge (slightly musty, little fruit).
Best of the night: Chateau Maucaillou Cru Bourgeois 1993 (good extraction, slightly smokey nose, gentle tannins).
Not entirely surprisingly I preferred the New world and Mary favoured the Old, apart from the last pair when we switched allegiances.
Then we wandered off to
Carluccio's Smithfield Caffé for supper. Noisy but good food, I had an excellent liver - to eat that is, I am sure sure about the state of my own after all this wine.
Labels: wine
Wines from the Veneto
Thursday evening was an excellent tasting of Veneto wines from
Masi and Serego Alighieri thanks to our friend Carolyn and the
Charteris Wine Society. The wines were presented by Daniel Block from Masi and supplied by
Berkmann.
Daniel was an excellent speaker, knowledgeable and amusing. He talked for an hour and a half, while we tasted, on the history of the region, the producers, the grapes and the unique production techniques of the area involving air drying of the grapes for several months. It is a shame the crowd on the next table talked over his presentation showing what I considered a distinct lack of courtesy to a guest.
Having been on a
Headwater walking holiday in the region it was doubly interesting. The wines presented were:
• 2000 Masianco - Masi
• 2003 Possessioni Bianco - Serego Alighieri
• 2003 Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico - Masi
• 2001 Campofiorin Ripasso - Masi
• 2003 Passo Doble - Masi Tupungato
• 2001 Grandarella - Masi
• 2000 Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella - Masi
• 1999 Vaio Armaron Amarone Classico - Serego Alighieri
• 1990 Vaio Armaron Amarone Classico - Serego Alighieri
• 2001 Casal dei Ronchi Recioto Classico - Masi
My favourite was the 1999 Vaio, especially compared to the 1990 which was nearly three times the price and half the flavour. Close behind it was the 2001 Recioto which makes an excellent alternative to a port and goes well with a rustic pecorino cheese or a chocolate mousse.
Labels: wine