Gullible's Travels
Tuesday, April 01, 2008
  Opening up Trullo Azzurro for the Season
The weekend was a flying visit to Italy to prepare Trullo Azzurro (formerly known as "Hovel in the Hills") for the coming season. We closed down back in October (see "Closing Down Trullo Azzuro for the Winter") now we have to get everything back out of the plastic bags and put all the bedding, sun loungers etc in the right houses.

It really was a flying visit, out 7:30 Saturday morning, back 21:20 Sunday evening. We went straight from and to work, staying at the SAS Radisson Friday and Sunday nights. Extends our trip and makes it feel more like a weekend break.

It was a productive visit. We met with Daniele the architect who brokered a meeting with the gardener who we had never actually met. We got quotes for some additional paving work and settled up our debts from last year, respectively. Then we went in to Cisternino to meet with Pierdonato to top up the kitty for the "meet and greet" and cleaning services. We also got an update on the water pump problems (don't ask). Finally it was out for a very enjoyable meal at Refugium Peccatorum with neighbours Chris and John.

Sunday we did popped round to see Mino at Truddhi where he kindly gave a bottle to the just-bottled wine we saw being pressed as grapes last year. Followed by an unplanned lunch at Chris and John's. The rest of the day was spent weeding the beds. No maintenance had been done over the winter and the place was looking very overgrown. Fortunately it is possible to make a huge visible difference in just a couple of hours. Then it was a final tidy up and off to the airport.

T5 may have problems with baggage but Stansted has problems with immigration. It took 45 minutes queuing to get through to the immigration desk so it was gone half midnight before we fell into bed. Which is why we stay at the airport. We are back out again in May for a long weekend over the May bank holiday which should be much more relaxing.

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Saturday, October 06, 2007
  Monday, September 24, 2007: Cookery School Day 2
Mino returns and Day 2 sets the pattern for the rest of the week: a excursion in the morning, lunch, class from 4 till 7:30, dinner at 8 for whoever was about. Usually us two, Carole and Mino, their friend Mair from Wales, Zia, and a couple of paying guests from the Truddhi holiday apartments where the lessons are held.

Truddhi Cookery School
Truddhi Cookery School

We visited a diary where they made mozzerella, all by hand from local milk. What amazed me was that all the mozzarella, even the little ones are all knotted by hand - you couldn't make it up!

knotting-mozzarella orecchietti stuffed-rabbit bread-butter-pudding
[Hover for title, click for larger version]

Then we made fava bean and chicory, orecchietti, stuffed rabbit and Mino's version of bread and butter pudding. This day we mostly watched and helped a little. As the week progressed we got more and more hands-on which was better. Partly at our insistence and partly (I am guessing) that Mino realised we were able cooks.

A fuller set of Day 2 photos on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8179454@N02/sets/72157602209424622/

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Wednesday, October 03, 2007
  Friday, September 21, 2007: Lunch at Rosa's
We like to get down to our favourite beach side restaurant every trip if we can: La Rotonda Da Rosa down between Savelletri and Torre Canne. Friday it had to be, as weekends are too busy and the next week we were on the cookery course. Rosa is a real character with a cackle of a laugh and greets us like long lost cousins.


At Rosa's with Andrea and Elaine in June 2007

She is now famous having appeared on the BBC series "Rick Stein's Mediterranean Escape". Apparently last week a coach-load of Brits turned up and had their photo's taken with her and hunted autographs.

This came as a surprise as she hadn't seen the programme. Mary had the thoughtfulness to get me to burn an extra DVD to give Rosa as a 'regalo' (present). Here is the clip with her in:

Rosa cooks ricci (sea urchin) with pasta for Rick Stein *

URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unlrM07foME

Weird to see someone you know on the telly!

* From Episode 3 - Buy the book from Amazon

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Sunday, September 30, 2007
  Back from Italy
Apologies to my regular readers. The temporary hiatus in posting is because we have been in Italy for 9 days on a cookery school with Mino Maggi (see "Meeting Italian Neighbours (1)"). I will be retro-blogging loads of foodie pictures this week to catch up.

In the meantime, a traveller's tale (or two in fact):

Our flight from Bari to Rome was delayed by 25 minutes and we only had a 50 minute connection, including passport control. As we landed and entered Terminal A we were met by an Alitalia rep holding up a card.

He popped us onto one of those "old granny with stick" buggies with six other passengers and went careering off to Terminal C like a Formula 1 driver. Met us again the other side of passport control to get us to the gate. Great fun!

Then when we landed at Heathrow we walked up to the luggage carousel and out of the chute popped our bags where normally we expect a 30-40 minute wait: result!!

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Tuesday, September 04, 2007
  Fried Peppers with Garlic, Capers and Vinegar
This is one of Mary's favorite recipes so it has become one of my signature dishes. I make it regularly especially when in Italy (see "Our first dinner party"). It is excellent with barbecued chicken.

It is also, like Panzanella, a fine example of a "Traffic Light Meal". For the benefit of Americans 800gm is four bell peppers (I aim for two red, two yellow, never green - the capers do that).

Fried Peppers with Garlic, Capers and Vinegar

Fried Peppers with Garlic, Capers and Vinegar
from one of Carluccio's recipe books.

Serves 4-6

800 g (1 ¾ lb) whole red and yellow bell peppers
4 cloves garlic
1 tbs salted capers (alternatively capers in vinegar)
4 tbs olive oil
2 tbs wine vinegar
salt

Cut the peppers into strips. Slice the garlic and put the capers to soak in a bowl of water. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the strips of pepper. The oil should be quite hot. Stir while frying the peppers: their skins should begin to scorch at the edges. Then add the slices of garlic and the capers, drained and dried before being added. While these ingredients are sizzling, add the vinegar and salt, stir well and let the vinegar evaporate for a minute. Serve immediately if you like, but an excellent dish cold.

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Friday, August 31, 2007
  Maps Satellite and Digital
Like many people when Google Earth first came out I immediately looked for my house. In London I could clearly see the magnolia tree in the front garden, next door's car parked round the corner and even the road markings on the street outside our house. Amazing!

Next I went to look at the Hovel-in-the-Hills and what a disappointment. The photo seems to have been taken with a box brownie strapped directly to the satellite. Way up high and fuzzy with no detail, certainly not enough to even make out any individual buildings.

But recently they have uploaded some much more detailed pictures and suddenly we can see our house even if we cannot make out any details. The white patches to the West and South are the two fields created the year before last by the rock muncher.


View Larger Map

But beware the digital map version. It show gaps where there are roads and shows roads where there are bramble filled paths between two stone walls. Jim's Sat Nav sent him into the middle of a nearby cement works!

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Thursday, August 30, 2007
  Maps Ancient and Modern
Ever since we took ownership of the Hovel-in-the-Hills™ we have been looking for decent scale maps of the local area.

The "Istituto Geografico Militare" http://www.igmi.org/ promised 1:25,000 (4 cm to 1 km or 2½ inches to 1 mile) but when we investigated they turned out to be discontinued. So instead we went for the 1:50,000. We are near an edge and so ordered two; one arrived and the other was out of print. And the level of detail is nothing like as clear as the Ordnance Survey maps. Pretty useless but we framed it and put it on the wall anyway.

Conversely the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 series are readily available in all good bookshops, specialist leisure shops and online from their website. In fact the OS go all the way to 1:1250 for business purposes and also do historical maps. For Wandsworth they even do an 1866 map at a quite extraordinary 1:1,056, that is 5 feet to the statute mile! Which I bought.

You can see every outbuilding, drinking fountain, fence and field boundary, even the garden paths are marked in the bigger houses. Our house is there - both the original building and the later rear extension. So we now know that extension is at least 1866 and the main house, obviously, older than that.

Now all I need to do is get back down to the library and that 1851 survey to get a positive fix on our property. Easier to do now I can match the census house numbers to the buildings on the map.

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Wednesday, August 08, 2007
  A New Boiler for Trullo Azzurro
Sunday morning, despite the late night, our alarm went off at the normal weekday time. We were off to Italy for another 24-hour visit to check out the new boiler. For the last 18 months we have had an intermittent Error Code 2 and cold showers. Ignazio, the heating engineer, had installed filters, changed parts, flushed out the system - all to no avail. In the end he and Daniele agreed to rip the bl**dy thing out and install a simpler boiler.

With our first real paying punters arriving this weekend we needed to reassure ourselves that this one would really work. Cold showers are not good for word-of-mouth recommendations! As it turned out this new boiler does appear to function. It is a lot simpler, no remote, wireless controller but a good old-fashioned knob that you turn.

We met up with our new neighbours, Chris&John, and went out to try a new (to us) restaurant that they had been recommended: Il Cucco in Corso Umberto I, Cisternino. It is also an enoteca (wine shop). We had an excellent meal; the antipasti were many and varied, there must have been well over 20 different starters! Then the main courses were slightly unusual: roast beef with lampascioni, and pork fillet with a zucchini flower sauce. And of course a good selection of wine; we are gradually introducing Chris&John to the local specialities.

Lamia side view showing stairs to roof

Finally an view of the Lamia I have not posted before. Standing on the roof of the pizza oven this is a view showing the stairs to the roof and, hiding behind the leaves, you can just see the boiler room door.

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Friday, July 20, 2007
  Pizza Oven Door
Italy still has a strong tradition of small local craftsmen; not everything is made in big factories. While we were round at Carole and Mino's we spotted a new wrought iron table base. We needed one as well so asked where they bought it. The answer was a local blacksmith. Perhaps he could make a door for our pizza oven as well?

The following Wednesday Mino guided us to a basement workshop down a back street where we met the man and, with Mino's help, discussed our requirements. The *following* afternoon we went back and collected a made-to-order table base and oven door. How is that for service!

pizza oven door
Pizza Oven Door

It is a beautifully made door: solid, fits perfectly, opens smoothly, has a little spy hole to check on the inside, chunky rivets and little brass knobs. I am so pleased with it.

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Sunday, July 15, 2007
  Meeting the Italian Neighbours (2)
Walking over to visit Carole and Mino we took a shortcut off-road down some dirt tracks. We passed a couple sitting out in their yard drinking a glass of wine and called out a cheery "Buon giorno" to which the reply was "Must be English!" I suspect my panama hat was the giveaway, plus Mary's tall blondeness.

To cut a long story short it turned out that Chris(tine) and John are in the process of retiring to Italy. On the way back we stopped, introduced ourselves and drank their wine. Subsequently we had each other over for dinner and we went out for a meal together on our last night in Italy.

chris and john
Chris and John dine with us at Trullo Azzurro

Chris is a fluent Italian speaker courtesy of her Italian mother. We got on famously as they are really friendly and (dare I say it) pleased to have English speaking neighbours. Between them and Carole and Mino I feel we are starting to find our way in to the local community.

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Friday, July 13, 2007
  Meeting the Italian Neighbours (1)
carole and mino maggi
Carole and Mino Maggi live just 2.5 km away in the local village of Trito. They run a lovely holiday complex of trulli called "Truddhi" (apparently the local dialect word for trulli).

Carole is Welsh and met and married local boy Mino 30 years ago. They returned to Italy and have been there ever since. They are charming and friendly and said we could use their pool. We very gratefully accepted given the recent heatwave.

They also run a cookery school and do demonstration dinners. Mary and I are going on the course in September to learn how to cook real Italian, local style.

While we were out there with Bill, Andrea and Elaine they put on a demonstration dinner for their guests and us. Many of their guests were actually family so it was a very sociable evening. We arrived at 6 o'clock and watched while Mino and his sister Zia prepared and cooked the entire meal from scratch. We finally ate at 9 by which time we were ready for the food!

I was watching with great interest how Zia used the pizza oven hoping to pick up tips on how to use ours. More on the oven later...

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Monday, July 09, 2007
  If life gives you cherries...
...make cherry jam.


Market Stall


One of the fun features of any foreign land is the visit to the market. We are midway between Cisternino, market day Monday, and Locorotondo, market day Friday. So we have done a lot of wandering around the markets admiring the local fresh produce and the ludicrously cheap clothing and housewares.


Mary at a Market Stall

One old boy was selling cherries and it was the end of the day. We asked for mezzo kilo (just over a pound weight) but he kept piling them in the bag despite our cries of "basta!" (enough!). We ended up with 2 kilo (4½ pound) for 5 Euro.


Cherries before triage and stoning

What to do? We couldn't eat that many. So Mary consulted her Italian cook books and found "ciliegie sotto spirito" (cherries in alcohol) and I googled a cherry jam recipe in the internet cafe.

First step was to separate into eating, cooking and chucking. The alcoholic recipe was easy. Buy neat alcohol in the supermarket (not something you can do in the UK, maybe use gin or vodka instead), bung in some cinnamon stick, a couple of cloves and a spoonful of sugar then cover with alcohol.


Cherries under alcohol

The jam was not so successful because I chucked the sugar in then read the recipe which said boil the fruit first *then* add the sugar. I removed as much as I could and proceeded as instructed but I ended up with something more like cherries in syrup than jam. Still it was very tasty spread on toast so I'm happy.

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Saturday, June 30, 2007
  Roasting our visitors
The first half of this trip has been full of visitors.

On the Tuesday 19 June, Jim - a work colleague - arrived with his wife Debby and their three youngest daugthers. He is American of Sicilian ancestry and so took the opportunity while working in the UK to get the family over, visit Rome and then drive down to get the ferry over to Sicily. As this was while we where in Puglia I said "Come stay with us" and so he did!

They stayed overnight and left on Wednesday morning the same day as Bill (pictured here buying melons in the local market) arrived for a week. Then on Friday two girl friends of Mary's, Andrea and Elaine, joined us for a very long weekend.

It has been a heatwave round here. Bari reached 47 C (117 F), the hottest since records began. Fortunately up in the hills we peaked at a mere 40 C (104 F)

Everybody left on Wednesday 27 June so now we have ten days to relax on our own.

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Thursday, June 28, 2007
  Midway through our holiday
I have not been blogging because we are halfway through a three week holiday in Italy. This is a quick post as we have just popped into town to pick up a few items. So much to write about so here is a snippet to keep you going.

I did a full stock-take of the garden trees, with the help of our friend Bill who was visiting for a week, and can confirm that we have:

Now all I have to do is find out how to harvest and process raw olives.

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Friday, June 15, 2007
  Main courtyard before and after
In all the before and after pictures I had managed to miss those of the main courtyard.


Main courtyard before
So here is the very first time we went with the estate agents back in early 2004.


Main courtyard after
And this is how it ended up three and a half years and many euros later.

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Monday, May 21, 2007
  Early May in Italy 07
Off to Italy *again* at the weekend. This time a free Alitalia flight courtesy of airmiles but the limited number of mile and availability meant we did have to catch an early flight. Up at 4am to catch a 6am flight and we only just caught it. The queues were horrendous and our flight got called forward twice: once at the check-in desks and again for the security screening.

As requested the gardener had started planting up the beds but has yet to start work on the automatic watering system. He has planted up the beds with typical Maquis shrubs plus some roses and iris.

flower bed with shrubs
Flower bed with shrubs

The weekend was spent doing a few useful things. Ordered a last couple of bits of furniture: a cupboard for the Lamia living room (storage is scarce) and a side table to put the small hi-fi on. We made another trip to Emmezetta (local hypermarket) and bought a giant parasol and an all-in-one TV and DVD player. We also bought a copy of The Blues Brothers to watch - in Italian of course - but I knew the lines so well that didn't really matter.

I also managed to clean out the pizza oven ready for my first attempt at real pizza cooking when we go out in June.

Note:
Edited post to replace camera photos with quality image from Mary's camera. [Tue 22-May-07]

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Monday, April 16, 2007
  Pasqua in Puglia 2007
I have been off air as we went to the Hovel-in-the-Hills™ for Easter. This was our first holiday there planned as a holiday not chivying the architect to fix the snagging list. We went out with friends Tim&Sarah, their two children Alex and Zoe plus an old friend Ros.

Alberobello Easter 2007
Alberobello: Of course the world heritage site of Alberobello is a must. A town of trulli only 20 minutes drive away.


Sunbathing in the Courtyard Easter 2007
Sarah, Tim, Mary and Ros relax: We managed to fit in a good amount of sunbathing.

Moore Family Easter 2007
Moore Family on the Lamia Roof: Watching the sunset from the roof top with a glass of prosecco in hand is a daily ritual after a hard day's sunbathing.

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Wednesday, March 14, 2007
  Opening up the Hovel
We had a couple of enquiries about renting "Trullo Azzurro" which have not, unfortunately, turned into bookings. However it was enough to prompt us to squeeze in an extra trip to Puglia to see how the Hovel-in-the-Hills ™ had survived the winter.

Mary was going to the Madame Butterfly on Friday with her friend Andrea so we had to fly out on Saturday. We could not face Ryanair and anyway they are not so cheap as you get close to the departure date. Instead we flew Alitalia changing in Milan Malpensa (MXP). That meant we arrived in daylight with the shops still open so we could get breakfast stuff and have time to examine the property on arrival.

trulli spring 07

It had survived the winter very well: last year's plasterwork had obviously finished drying out and the bags and boxes we used for storage had done the trick. The hot water and heating seemed to be working fine but the control box was being a little erratic. We got the underfloor heating working and the place slowly warmed up.

Sunday was a little overcast but Monday was bright and sunny so we could open all the doors and get the bedding aired on the line. We called in Daniele, the architect, and Ignazio, the heating engineer, to look at the boiler controls and discuss a few minor repair items about the place. Then lunch and back to Bari airport for the trip home.

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Sunday, January 28, 2007
  Trulli Before and After (2)
More before and after pictures [click on images for larger version].

Back of the Lamia
view of back of the Lamia before worksview of back of the Lamia after works

The Cones from the Lamia Roof
The Cones from the Lamia Roof before worksThe Cones from the Lamia Roof after works

Pizza Oven
Pizza Oven before worksPizza Oven after works

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Tuesday, January 23, 2007
  Trulli Before and After (1)
Having, finally, finished the work on the trulli we went through the photo archive and dug out some before pictures so we could show you the difference [click on images for larger version].

Cones viewed from the garden
view of cones from garden before worksview of cones from garden after works

Inside of the Lamia from the door towards kitchen and bathroom
view of lamia living room before worksview of lamia living room after works

Inside of the Lamia looking back towards the door
view of lamia fireplace before worksview of lamia fireplace after works

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Thursday, December 14, 2006
  Flying visit to Italy
Monday was yet another flying visit to Italy. One of the disagreeable things about the Ryanair flight is the timings - they clash with meal times. Do we eat early, at 4pm in Stansted, or late, at 10:30pm in Locorotondo? Dining in the air on a Ryanair sandwich doesn't have much appeal.

We flew out Sunday night and stayed in a Best Western near Bari airport. We went for the hotel option as we didn't fancy making up the bed for one night with no guarantee that the heating was working. It also meant we could eat at a very pleasant restaurant across the road from the hotel without an hour and fifteen minutes drive to Locorotondo.


All in all it was a hectic but productive trip. Basically the place is complete, the final few bits are done like the handrail to the roof and a security bar across the bedroom window. That meant we could settle up apart from a small retention in case the boiler breaks down yet again.

 • Up bright and early to drive to Cisternino
 • Met with Pierdonato at the estate agents to discuss key holding, cleaning and "watchman" services
 • Went to bank to get out final payment money for Daniele and change our UK address details
 • Back to Pierdonato to leave a kitty to cover future services
 • Met with Daniele at the property to pay the final tranche of money
 • Were joined by the plant man to discuss planting schemes
 • Went for lunch at a seafood restaurant down on the coast
 • Came back via Emmezeta (supermarket) to buy dehumidifier tablets
 • Installed tablets and plugged in electric dehumidifier to keep the place dry over the winter
 • Final check and lock up for the season
 • Off to the airport for pizza and red wine
 • Arrived at Stansted and fell into the SAS Radisson hotel and bed

On the flight home Mary's token was picked in the prize draw for a free flight. Sounds good but the small print says it can only be taken on alternate Tuesdays with a full moon within the next eight weeks. So she may do a bonus trip to Scotland or we may fit in a unscheduled February trip.

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Wednesday, July 19, 2006
  Saturday, July 08, 2006: Homeward bound


Saturday dawned brighter so time to take a last few photos to show family and friends. We dropped a set of keys off to Damico's the estate agent through whom we bought the property and who will arrange cleaning, linen and emergency support when we do eventually start letting out. We met Pierdonato, Signor Damico himself, who gave us a very stubbly kiss on both cheeks and enthused about the property, lots of "bella" and, thumping his chest, "cuore" (heart). He thoroughly approves of what we have done and the way we have done it. Very gratifying.

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Tuesday, July 18, 2006
  Friday, July 07, 2006: A damp finale
Our last day dampened by rain all afternoon but the ground works continue. Daniele has arranged for a stretch of the neighbouring farmer's wall to be rebuilt and some stones to be munched while the men and machines are here. Part of the trade off for agreeing where the new boundary wall should go. No skin off our nose and an excellent idea to keep on good terms with the neighbours. An unexpected bonus was that they munched part of the strada bianca so it is less jarring on the nerves and the suspension.


Olive tree in top driveway

Externally Donato has moved the olive tree to where it will give shade for at least one parked car. Internally the progress is not quite as promised. The washer-drier has turned up but both it and the oven have yet to be installed. The carpenter is due next week to make the cupboards for under the work surface and to box in the fridge and dishwasher.

There are a few bits of "making good" to be done and the last part of the garden to be covered with topsoil. We will email a snagging list (US: punch list) to Daniele next week ready for our next visit in six weeks time. By then all must be ready or he doesn't get the last tranche of money.

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  Thursday, July 06, 2006: Garden creation
Today was a day for retreating to the beach while the ground works continue. Out at 10, back at 4 to find great progress. Having removed the larger or reusable stones the team brought in a garden variety rock muncher. Unlike the industrial version (See "Rock Muncher") that does whole fields in a day, this more modest version converted the garden rubble and stone debris into dust and gravel ready for a covering of topsoil.



As far as we can tell this topsoil is coming from another project down the lane where they excavated for a huge double cisterna and underground garage; at least half a dozen lorry-loads so far. Spread about by the JCB, the garden is starting to look like a garden not some rock-strewn desert.

Our September visit will include visits to the local garden centre to stock up on hardy, drought resistant, low (nil) maintenance plants. Driving about we have been making a mental note of road side plants that seem to thrive naturally without human intervention of much water. We will certainly be replacing the black fig lost in the making of the drive, planting rosemary, lavender and a lemon tree (for the Gin and Tonic). There will also be a herb patch but beyond that we are still in the early planning stage.

In the evening we went over to Christine and John's for supper and met a crowd of their friends: Paulo, Simone and Patricia, Anne, her son Toby, and Reno, a neighbour. Plus got thoroughly slobbered by their bouncy Labradors, Kahn and Shah. Another post-midnight end to the day.

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  Wednesday, July 05, 2006: Rubble and extras
Today is the start of clearing and tidying the grounds. The JCB and Bobcat are back and started on moving piles of stone and levelling mounds of earth, also moving and olive tree to where it will shade the drive. They have some work ahead of them as the grounds / garden is a cross between a building site and a quarry.



Amongst the piles of stones is a smaller heap of shaped flagstones. Having finally spent longer than 24 hours there we decided the path round the back needs extending to give us a small patio area. This will get the late afternoon and early evening sun. It will also give us a private area to sit out when the main courtyard is in use by paying guests. Another cost overrun but what the heck!

Looking back over the last 18 months I am very happy with all the "extras" decisions we have made even if they all added to the final bill:
• making the Lamia kitchen smaller so we could gain a second bedroom
• knocking through two doors from the Lamia dining room into the bedrooms
• doing the aesthetic reconstruction on the front cone
• restoring the pizza oven
• creating a second driveway which enabled us to block up the original entrance and have an enclosed courtyard
• paving the *whole* of the courtyard by widening the flower bed (and our budget)
• building a low perimeter wall round the entire plot (there was no demarcation between our land and the farmer's field)


New wall, flower bed and courtyard

Daniele came and presented us with a final schedule of costs that was nearly double the original base estimate, partly because that base was the bare minimum required to make it habitable and partly because of all the extras we opted for. Since this will become our main (or at least equal first) home I am happy to have spent the money. Also, as Daniele points out, to come back later and do more extras would cost much more. There have been economies of scale and logistics doing all the work while the specialist stonemasons, other trades and equipment are already on site.

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  Tuesday, July 04, 2006: Thunderstorms and pasta
During the night we had a tremendous thunderstorm right over our heads. Not so much rain but deafening thunder of the jolt-you-awake, have-we-been-struck variety. We hadn't but it was enough to trip the main fuse so no water until we switched the pump back on. At which point we discovered the boiler was leaking and had to switch the pump back off again until the plumber could sort it out.

On a previous visit we had agreed to install an extra safety fuse to protect the electricity meter, which is out in the lane, from the effects of lightning strikes. This means when we are plunged into darkness we only have to reset the trip-switch in the house rather than venture out into the elements to reset the main ENEL fuse.

We are surrounded by fields and olive groves of the kind that feature in travel guides describing the Italian countryside. These books focus on the obvious features of any foreign land: the architecture, art and history, the food, culture and language. Howvever they tend to miss out on the little everyday things that also characterise a country like how Italian men drive with one arm dangling out the window. Or how every supermarket, large or small, has a complete aisle dedicated to dried pasta in all its myriad forms.

If you wander round a kitchen showroom or inspect an unoccupied house for sale there is always a packet of pasta on the worktop as 'window dressing'. It is clearly iconic emotional shorthand for home / food / family.

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Friday, July 14, 2006
  Monday, July 03, 2006: Our first dinner party
During the day two 'lads' came and grouted all the pathways laid by Billy "No Mates" last week. This past week we have had almost daily visits from Daniele (architect) and Donato (foreman) who is directing the lads. The various bits of wiring, plumbing and plastering continue but not at the same frenetic pace of last Monday.

In the evening we had our very first dinner party in Puglia. Christine, a tutor on Mary's NLP course, lives the far side of Ostuni about 15 m (24 km) away. So we called and invited her and husband John over for supper. John's GPS was able to confirm our exact location as N 40° 45' 912", E 17° 22' 604" and elevation as 480mt above sea level.


[thanks to wikipedia for the picture]

We have a mystery tree in our garden. We could identify all the other trees (olive, green fig, black fig, almond, apple) but not this last tree. I could not believe a farmer would plant anything unless it had some utility value. John was able to identify it for us as a white mulberry. The grub-like fruits are very tasty and would, I imagine, make a delicious crumble or flan.

We served a simple supper of cherry tomato, mozzarella and rocket (US: rucola) followed by grilled chicken (marinated in olive oil, lemon juice and garlic), fried mushrooms and peppers and capers. We chatted away till midnight when our guest left with a return visit arranged for Thursday.

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  Sunday, July 02, 2006: Small doors
The Trulli are not quite as large as they may appear in the photos. They have been nick-named "Dwarves' Cathedrals". This picture will give you an idea of scale, I am 5' 8½" (174cm).



We have a habit of buying old houses with small doors. The door into the bathroom is 65 in (165 cm) and into the middle Trulli (illustrated) only 59 in (150 cm). A couple of times I have gone to the bathroom for a pee in the middle of the night and staggered back to bed clutching my forehead and muttering, "Ow! Ow! Ow! That hurt!!" I am still learning to duck walk like Groucho Marx.

Avon Cottage holds the record though, the door into the third bedroom is only 44 in (112 cm) high by 22 in (56 cm) wide. This is because the room is converted loft space and the door is squeezed between the oak of the cruck frame and the brick of the chimney. Not surprisingly it is a favourite with visiting children.

In Puglia the door size is as much a function of the local population. Here in Southern Italy, Mary and I tower a full head above half the people at the local market. Mary's height, pale Scottish complexion, freckles, blue eyes and blonde hair attract a number of curious stares. If, as they often do, guess us as German, Mary corrects them in Italian "Sono Scozzese" (I'm Scottish).

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Thursday, July 13, 2006
  Saturday, July 01, 2006: White Roads
Another lazy day of 35 °C (95 °F), blues skies, sunbathing and reading. Retreat indoors for lunch and the hottest part of the day. More relaxing in the afternoon then a cycle into Cisternino, as much for the exercise as any purpose, though we did acquire a couple of water-bottles and bottle holders for the bikes. Mary has signed us up for another charity bike ride the weekend following our return so we need to keep in practice. This will be twice our previous ride, 60 miles from Hampton Court to Hove (http://www.capitaltocoast.org.uk/)



The Hovel is down a dirt track known in Italian as a "Strada Bianca" - literally "White Road" - which well describes this dry and dusty, narrow limestone track. Everything is covered in fine white dust including my best deck shoes. As we were going out for a meal I thought I had better give them a clean. Burgundy shoe polish is not on my normal holiday packing list so I thought I would improvise with the furniture polish - a bit of silicone wax, neutral colour - just the job. Unfortunately I grabbed the "Raid" fly spray and gave my shoes good dousing before I noticed my mistake. So my feet should be free of flies and wasps for a while.

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Wednesday, July 12, 2006
  Wednesday, June 28, 2006: Italian bugs
The insect life round here is impressive. The slaters* on steroids are, if anything, even larger than on our last visit. Like Hollywood hopefuls looking for a part in some Jurassic Park follow-up. The beetles and bugs are larger than life too and there are huge swarms of butterflies of all colours. The lizards come in two sizes: small brown ones (illustrated) that we have nicknamed "Larry" and the foot long (30cm) bright green ones which are very camera-shy. Even the Turkish Gecko put in a brief re-appearance.



We also have small inch long (2cm) scorpions. I did accidentally transfer one into the car on the bottom of a bag and before I could shoo it out it had scuttled, irretrievably, between the cushions of the back seat. H-m-m, maybe I just won't mention that till we get back home.

The bag contained laundry from out last few trips here. We *had* hoped to put it through the washing machine that Daniele had assured us would be installed by the time we arrived. Looking at the hole where it should be we decided to drop a couple of bags off at the local cleaners for a service wash.

*Scottish for Wood louse (US: Roly-poly bug).

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Tuesday, July 11, 2006
  Tuesday, June 27, 2006: Dining under the stars
Tuesday was spent at the beach down past Savelletri. We called in at Emmezeta (local hypermarket) on the way out to pick up a few more pieces for the house: 2 under-bed storage crates, 2 small bedside tables, de-humidifying tablets, more fire lighters and charcoal for the barbeque, etc.

Then we hit the sunloungers till lunchtime at La Rotonda de la Rosa. After seafood antipasta washed down with 1/2 litre of local vino bianco Mary had the seafood linguini. I passed but had a tartufo nero (dark chocolate truffle icecream) over which they had poured a good measure of local liqueur. That meant we had to return to the sunloungers for a siesta until I was safe to drive home again.

The tan is coming along sporadically. Mary says I look like a Battenburg cake but it is more like a Neopolitan ice cream with tastefully contrasting blocks of coffee, vanilla and strawberry. Pass the (sun) cream!



That evening, for the second night running we barbequed in our newly enclosed courtyard. It is wonderful to be able to dine under the stars - clearly visible, there is so little light pollution - wearing just shorts and a T-shirt scarcely believing the cuteness of our surroundings. It was almost hallucinatory, can this - finally - be real.

It has been over three years since we first saw this place. It took 18 months to buy it with many false alarms and abortive trips to Italy. Then, once ours, the building works took forever (17 months so far) and might just be finished before we leave this trip.

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  Monday, June 26, 2006: Workmen start early
A rude awakening at 5:30am (UK: 4:30am) as the first of the workmen arrive and start breaking rocks outside our bedroom window and I am not talking metaphorically here. By the time we are up and breakfasted there is a full squad in action: eleven (!) men, a JCB digger and a Bob Cat mini-bulldozer. Needless to say the work proceeds at an astonishing pace.



As Monday is market day in Cisternino we left them to it and went to stock up on fruit and veg for the week. By the end of the day the original entrance is walled across and the inner wall for the flower bed is done. Several metres of the perimeter pathway are constructed and most of the floor lights cabled in. The concrete beside the pizza oven steps is plastered over and the entire complex given its second coat of limewash so all is gleaming white and looking fab.

Several of the lads worked a 12 hour day before disappearing. One of them returned at nine o'clock that night to dump a load of capstones for the boundary walls. So we got an early night expecting another onslaught the following day.

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Monday, July 10, 2006
  Sunday, June 25, 2006: First inspection
Breakfast part one was a cup of tea with UHT milk left by Cordia, our first guest, a couple of weeks ago. We had arrived too late last night to go via the shops and stock up as originally planned.

We made a tour of inspection to see what progress had been made since our last visit four weeks ago. The works were *not* completed - as expected - but there was lots to see.

The courtyard paving was finished and the perimeter path went two-thirds of the way round the building. The inset lights in the path and roof terrace were in place but not wired in. A cooker, dishwasher and fridge had appeared in the Lamia house awaiting installation.

Most impressive though was the aesthetic restoration of the front cone. Now the front door arch matches the courtyard door and the roof line has a very traditional shape to it. I am really pleased we went for it, it looks fantastic <G>



At nine o'clock it was a quick drive to the local supermarket for milk and bread for breakfast part two and food for the rest of the day. We had treated ourselves to a convertible from Avis, the smallest they do - a Nissan Micra 1.4 - it must be one of the smallest cabriolet around. You would have to call it a fun car because you couldn't take it seriously: 0-60 with an egg timer, a boot (US: trunk) that could scarely hold an overnight bag when the roof is concertinered into it and back seats only suitable for children or double amputees. Still it is just the job for us: top down, glorious sunshine and wall to wall blue sky.

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Sunday, July 09, 2006
  I'm back, I'm back
I'm on the right track *

Two weeks without internet access or blog entries!

Fortunately I bought a notebook and kept a paper blog (or diary as they used to be known). I will retro-post but in the mean time here is the before and after...

* Hello hello I'm back again by Garry Glitter



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Friday, June 23, 2006
  The final cone


We are off tomorrow (Saturday) so this may be my last post for two weeks unless I can make it to the new internet cafe in Locorontondo.

Daniele has sent us more pictures to prove the squad are still "on the case". This cone did not need doing on practical grounds but it had been unsympathetically repaired by a previous owner. This obviously distresssed Daniele and he persuaded us to do an aesthetic repair to return it to its original condition. Like the cottage and another budget over-run. Ho-hum, I am a sucker for doing the right thing.

So in two week's time expect a rash of new piccies of the completed des res in the sun. Until then "live long and prosper".

Toodle-pip!

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Friday, June 09, 2006
  Pictures from Daniele
Daniele, our architect, emailed me some photos yesterday - proof positive that the workmen continue to work even in our absence:
Lorry Delivering Flagstones
Lorry Delivering Flagstones
This is where some of the budget overrun is going.

Courtyard Started
Courtyard Started
The first line of stones in place.

Back Door Path
Back Door Path
We are having a metre wide path all around the perimeter of the building.

Roof Terrace Completed
Roof Terrace Completed
This is where we watch the sun set with a glass of vino bianco.

Pizza Oven Work-in-Progress
Pizza Oven Work-in-Progress
Oven at the back, wood store on the right, doors to be added to give us storage space for garden furniture.

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Thursday, June 01, 2006
  Completion of the hovel in sight
This weekend's visit was the most encouraging so far. There were signs of progess on the Lamia House* not least of which was workmen on site doing banging and hammering. Previous visits have been marked by a noticeable lack of any activity or progress (see "Trulli update for April 06" and "Trulli interior").

This is partly due our friend Anne learning from our experience. She commissioned Daniele, our architect, to install a pool for her with stiff time penalties, to whit: if not complete by the start of the season you don't get paid. So now that her pool and terracing is all but done the squad have transferred their allegiance back to us.

This is a bedroom in the Trulli House which is compact - don't be fooled by the wide angle lens. We went for minimalist furnishings, a small canvas covered, pine mini-wardrobe and a hat stand. The joy of these rooms is that, lying in bed, you look up into the interior of the cone.

bedroom in trulli bedroom in trulli looking up

In the Lamia house we now have internal doors with elegantly slim metal frames and glass panels with hooks for curtains. They are really well made and clunk nicely into place. We have kitchen worktop with extra-thick (6 cm) marble. We have a bath where previously was a hole and pipes poking out of the wall. The electrician was doing final wiring so the plasterer could come in the following day and do the last decorative coat.

kitchen in lamia bathroom in lamia

All in all it look like it might actually be ready for our holiday end of June. In terms of the old triple constraint we are way over time (18 months), way over budget (don't even ask) and over quality (but that I can happily live with).

Daniele keeps pacifying us with "It will be worth the wait" and it is true that he has done a wonderful restoration in a most sypathetic and authentic manner. He has been collecting and recycling old stones for the courtyard so that it will look original rather than a smooth, modern intrusion.

flagstones for courtyard view across valley from lamia roof

Finally a view across "our" valley from the roof of the Lamia House. What you will not see is any houses. What you cannot hear are the cow bells as the herd across the valley wander homeward for the evening milking. This valley is so quiet we do not even get the nightly Italian dog chorus echoing back and forth. I am really looking foward to our proper holiday at the end of the month, two whole weeks of this :-)

* There are two halves to the property. Five cones make up the "Trulli house", two cones plus a rectangular agricultural building or "lamia" make up the "Lamia house".

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Wednesday, April 26, 2006
  Trulli Update for April 06
When we last visited in March [Update on Hovel in the Hills] Daniele said the second house would be ready by Easter. So we immediately rescheduled our holiday to June and planned a weekend instead. How prophetic we were.

The doors are on but inside is still the same shell. On the other hand the groundworks are looking good: we have a perimeter wall round the whole property, a drive and several sets of steps to transition between levels. The new cistern is dug and roofed and due to be lined and filled with water this week. Also the pizza oven restoration is well under way.

We have our first paying guests next week, a nominal sum only in return for being guinea pigs in a building site. As a result the weekend was spent sweeping out the rooms, wiping a fine layer of grey-green mould off all the furniture and sorting the contents of the storage boxes. Plus a trip to the local hyper-market for garden furniture and self-assembly wardrobes. Not the most relaxing weekend and we are not best pleased with Daniele's idea of "cleaned".

pizza oven before restoration
Pizza oven before restoration
Looking worse than it started!
pizza oven after restoration
Pizza oven after restoration
Well almost done.
front of trulli april 2006
Front of trulli april 2006
Drive cleared of rubble. Doors on the Lamia.
back of trulli april 2006
Back of trulli april 2006
Drive, steps up to the terrace and general back view.

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Monday, March 06, 2006
  Update on the Hovel-in-the-Hills
"We went out for a nice Italian meal on Friday."
"Oh, where?"
"Italy."

These flying visits have settled into something of a routine. Leave work Friday midday and catch the train up to Stansted. Have a late lunch at the air-side seafood bar, smoked salmon and a glass of champagne, then fly Ryanair to Bari. Pick up the hire car and drive to Locorotondo, pick up the keys to the apartment and head straight to restaurant Centro Storico for a late supper and tucked up in bed by midnight.

Saturday we meet with Daniele the architect, survey the "progress", discuss a few items and then leave. This time literally a flying visit, we did a one way car hire back to Brindisi airport and back Saturday night. So we were actually in Italy for just 25 hours.

group of trulli and lamia
A view of our holiday home from the boundary

group of trulli
Bedroom trulli from the outside

interior of lamia
Lamia floor and walls almost complete

excavator digging
The driveway being levelled for the patio

Progress has been made on the lamia house, the floors have risen about nine inches since our last visit. This is due to the layered underfloor ventilation then heating then tiles. The walls are ready for the final plaster and whitewash. The roof-top terrace is also tiled and just the finishing touches to go. In two weeks the doors and windows are due, then final works can begin on the interior.

The driveway is being levelled for the patio and the new water cistern. The old one (behind the digger) is temporarily filled in as a safety measure and the new one will be in the same location but deeper and flush with the surface.

Danile reckons the building will be habitable by Easter, but there will still be groundworks, boundary walls, driveways, etc.

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Thursday, November 03, 2005
  Shopping in Puglia
This weekend it was shopping in Puglia. One half of the Hovel-in-the-Hills™ is almost finished. Enough for Mary's Mum and sister to come out for a weekend of shopping.

We flew out Saturday evening and on Sunday hit the hyper-market Emmezeta on the outskirts of Fasano, about 20 minutes drive away. They filled two trolleys with crockery, kettles, pots and pans and all the other impedimenta need to kit out a new home. We even needed a third trolley to deal with scanning through the checkout.

conical Trulli roofs
Conical Trulli roofs from the roof of the Lamia

The building was further progressed than our last visit but still not complete. The sink and hob are in but the oven, though working, has yet to be fully fitted. The walls are white-washed and look good but the floors have yet to be grouted and cleaned. Best of all the Nordica wood burning stove was installed and we had it going most of the weekend keeping us warm and helping to drive out some of the dampness.

Daniele had forgotten to organise the furniture delivery so we arranged for that to happen on Monday. By the time the "Girls" had finished the place was looking well settled and very much the holiday home-from-home.

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Tuesday, August 16, 2005
  Progress in Puglia
The lads chip away at the interior plaster

pizza oven door

Basically the squad have completed the previous property and have all moved over to our place. Progress now happens but even so I am chary of believing the guest property (nearest the camera) will be ready for our mid-September holiday.

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Tuesday, June 21, 2005
  Disappointing progress but...
When we arrived at the Hovel-in-the-Hills™ on Saturday morning we were a little disappointed by the lack of progress on the fabric of the building. No more cones re-furbished and the collapsed trulli was just as we left it four weeks ago.

Daniele did admit that Francesco, the stonemason and critical-path resource, had been away working on another project (typical builder!). But we were assured that he was now back on our case and much progress would be seen by our next visit in five weeks time.

On the other hand the internal wall at the back of the lamia was up which made the kitchen and bathroom into real rooms and much easier to visualise where the fittings, worktops and units would go.

Mary, Daniele and friend discuss kitchen layout
Mary, Daniele and friend discuss kitchen layout

A big surprise was in the other bathroom. Daniele know that room had once held a fire by the soot on the ceiling (hence the false chimney he put on the top of the cone). But when the lads stripped out the old sanitary ware they discovered an actual chimney behind the plaster. This will become an alcove with shelves for toiletries.

Bathroom stripped to reveal old chimney
Bathroom stripped to reveal old chimney

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Tuesday, May 24, 2005
  Rock muncher
Now this is a serious Monster Munch. Mary and I were both most impressed by this machine in the field below the Hovel-in-the-Hills ™. It is chewing the rocks you see on the right into the soil you see on the left. It does a field in a day.



According to an on-looker, "Il Padrone" who owns the field will be planting Primitivo but the following day the driver told us it will be a white grape. Either way it will be a "Good Thing" to be able to look out the back and see rows of vines.

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