Italian Themed Dinner Party
Our thanks to Mino and Zia at the Truddhi cookery school for teaching us what we needed to give a most successful dinner party on Saturday. The plan had always been to host a evening based on what we learned there. So on Saturday we persuaded usual suspects Bob&Lynn and John&Andrea to be our guinea pigs - not that they took too much persuading :-)
Antipasta mista con focaccia
We bought a variety of meats in the local market* sliced using our deli-style meat slicer bought following an earlier trip. The focaccia worked much better than an earlier trial bake though whether it was the yeast, the time to rise or the ambient temprature we are still working on.
Orecchiette con cime de rape
Home made from flour and water, every ear individually hand rolled; time consuming or what! The recipe was pretty much the one Mino demonstrated on Rick Stein's programme and was a great success.
Coniglio ripieno al forno
We bought the rabbit from Randalls Butchers in Wandsworth Bridge Road and Mary very patiently filleted it. She stuffed it with a mixture of fried giblets, breadcrumbs and egg** then tied it with string into two neat parcels. Baked with potatoes and lashing of olive oil.
Torta limone con lamponi
I was pastry chef and made a tart filled with lemon flavoured Confectioner's custard (creme patissiere) set wih gelatine and decorated with rasberries.
And of course plenty of wine. Even though I say it myself the evening went very well. Mind you with the right company that is pretty much guaranteed. A bonus was that most of the preparation was done in advance; the absence of last minute cooking meant we too could relax and enjoy.
* Origin within the EU for personal consumption so legal! [1] [2] [3] ** [11-Nov-07] Mary has asked me to add that the stuffing also included parmigiano, pecorino, parsley and garlic.
Monday, September 24, 2007: Cookery School Day 2
Mino returns and Day 2 sets the pattern for the rest of the week: a excursion in the morning, lunch, class from 4 till 7:30, dinner at 8 for whoever was about. Usually us two, Carole and Mino, their friend Mair from Wales, Zia, and a couple of paying guests from the Truddhi holiday apartments where the lessons are held.
Truddhi Cookery School
We visited a diary where they made mozzerella, all by hand from local milk. What amazed me was that all the mozzarella, even the little ones are all knotted by hand - you couldn't make it up!
[Hover for title, click for larger version]
Then we made fava bean and chicory, orecchietti, stuffed rabbit and Mino's version of bread and butter pudding. This day we mostly watched and helped a little. As the week progressed we got more and more hands-on which was better. Partly at our insistence and partly (I am guessing) that Mino realised we were able cooks.
Sunday, September 23, 2007: Cookery School Starts
Sunday was the start of the cookery school. Mino was in Wales at a food expo promoting Puglian food so we had Sunday lunch at his sister Zia's house. She fired up the pizza oven and we did a number of flour based dishes: focaccia, orecchietti, something else and then a tiedda (hotpot) of chicken and potatoes.
Zia and a forno a legno (wood burning oven)
It was all conducted in Italian as Zia has very little English which was good fun. Then we sat down with her family for Sunday lunch - it was a privilege to be invited into her home and family.
Birthday cake 2007
We flew out to Italy on my birthday (55 if you really want to know). My mother had given me this cake on the Sunday before we left. Very delicious but not enough time to eat it all so my colleagues at work rallied round and helped polish it off.
We went out for a birthday meal in "U'curdunn", the best restaurant in the locality along with (Italian) neighbours Chris and John and a couple of their friends
What was even better was that we have discovered a local taxi firm i.e. Francesco, so I was able to drink as well as eat :-)
Back from Italy
Apologies to my regular readers. The temporary hiatus in posting is because we have been in Italy for 9 days on a cookery school with Mino Maggi (see "Meeting Italian Neighbours (1)"). I will be retro-blogging loads of foodie pictures this week to catch up.
In the meantime, a traveller's tale (or two in fact):
Our flight from Bari to Rome was delayed by 25 minutes and we only had a 50 minute connection, including passport control. As we landed and entered Terminal A we were met by an Alitalia rep holding up a card.
He popped us onto one of those "old granny with stick" buggies with six other passengers and went careering off to Terminal C like a Formula 1 driver. Met us again the other side of passport control to get us to the gate. Great fun!
Then when we landed at Heathrow we walked up to the luggage carousel and out of the chute popped our bags where normally we expect a 30-40 minute wait: result!!
Food and Wine from the Sicily Region
at Enoteca Turi. This is a wonderful Puglian restaurant just down the road in Putney where we have eaten a couple of times previously.
This event was originally scheduled for Tuesday 11th September 2007. We tried to get in but it was fully booked and also it clashed with the Plant of The Grapes Rioja tasting. Because it was so popular Pam and Giuseppe decided to run a second event the following evening (last night).
Menu Stuzzichini Arancini di riso Sardine beccafico Primo sale with pacchino tomatoes Mosciame di tonno Barbazzale Inzolia IGT 2005 Cotta Nera
Layers of aubergine with mozzarella and caciocavallo Fatagione IGT 2003 Cotta Nera
Cuscusu Trapanese Red mullet, gunnard and monkfish soup with saffron couscous Chardonnay IGT 2005 Planeta
Rabbit Stimpirata Braised rabbit off the bone with onion, celery, olive, pine nuts and raisins Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso DOC 2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Rosso del Conte 2003 Tasca d'Almerita
Cassata Siciliana with lemon sorbet Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2004 Solidea
Coffee
The food was excellent as was the company. We had a most enjoyable chat to complete strangers, Jo and Robin, and Liz and Jim. But then you would expect people who go to such events to be of a sociable disposition.
Giuseppe had done his homework and gave an introduction to Sicilian political and gastronomic history and again before each course told us a little more about the specific dish and wine. They have done six of these wine and food dinners. With 20 regions in Italy they are planning plenty more events - where do we sign?
Fried Peppers with Garlic, Capers and Vinegar
This is one of Mary's favorite recipes so it has become one of my signature dishes. I make it regularly especially when in Italy (see "Our first dinner party"). It is excellent with barbecued chicken.
It is also, like Panzanella, a fine example of a "Traffic Light Meal". For the benefit of Americans 800gm is four bell peppers (I aim for two red, two yellow, never green - the capers do that).
Fried Peppers with Garlic, Capers and Vinegar from one of Carluccio's recipe books.
Serves 4-6
800 g (1 ¾ lb) whole red and yellow bell peppers 4 cloves garlic 1 tbs salted capers (alternatively capers in vinegar) 4 tbs olive oil 2 tbs wine vinegar salt
Cut the peppers into strips. Slice the garlic and put the capers to soak in a bowl of water. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the strips of pepper. The oil should be quite hot. Stir while frying the peppers: their skins should begin to scorch at the edges. Then add the slices of garlic and the capers, drained and dried before being added. While these ingredients are sizzling, add the vinegar and salt, stir well and let the vinegar evaporate for a minute. Serve immediately if you like, but an excellent dish cold.
Carole and Mino Maggi live just 2.5 km away in the local village of Trito. They run a lovely holiday complex of trulli called "Truddhi" (apparently the local dialect word for trulli).
Carole is Welsh and met and married local boy Mino 30 years ago. They returned to Italy and have been there ever since. They are charming and friendly and said we could use their pool. We very gratefully accepted given the recent heatwave. They also run a cookery school and do demonstration dinners. Mary and I are going on the course in September to learn how to cook real Italian, local style.
While we were out there with Bill, Andrea and Elaine they put on a demonstration dinner for their guests and us. Many of their guests were actually family so it was a very sociable evening. We arrived at 6 o'clock and watched while Mino and his sister Zia prepared and cooked the entire meal from scratch. We finally ate at 9 by which time we were ready for the food!
I was watching with great interest how Zia used the pizza oven hoping to pick up tips on how to use ours. More on the oven later...
One of the fun features of any foreign land is the visit to the market. We are midway between Cisternino, market day Monday, and Locorotondo, market day Friday. So we have done a lot of wandering around the markets admiring the local fresh produce and the ludicrously cheap clothing and housewares.
Mary at a Market Stall
One old boy was selling cherries and it was the end of the day. We asked for mezzo kilo (just over a pound weight) but he kept piling them in the bag despite our cries of "basta!" (enough!). We ended up with 2 kilo (4½ pound) for 5 Euro.
Cherries before triage and stoning
What to do? We couldn't eat that many. So Mary consulted her Italian cook books and found "ciliegie sotto spirito" (cherries in alcohol) and I googled a cherry jam recipe in the internet cafe.
First step was to separate into eating, cooking and chucking. The alcoholic recipe was easy. Buy neat alcohol in the supermarket (not something you can do in the UK, maybe use gin or vodka instead), bung in some cinnamon stick, a couple of cloves and a spoonful of sugar then cover with alcohol.
Cherries under alcohol
The jam was not so successful because I chucked the sugar in then read the recipe which said boil the fruit first *then* add the sugar. I removed as much as I could and proceeded as instructed but I ended up with something more like cherries in syrup than jam. Still it was very tasty spread on toast so I'm happy.
The following is the recipe exactly as it appears in my Sainsbury's Desserts and Puddings recipe book. Why they felt the need to specify the carton size I do not know. Since they did, what they should have done is write "2 x 284 ml (2 x 10 fl oz)" or better yet simply "568 ml (20 fl oz)". Using 1 x 284 ml (1 x 10 fl oz) meant this only just served 4.
Nowadays what I normally do is use the full amount of cream, increase the number of egg yolks to 6 and still regard it as "serves 6". Also I don't use vanilla essence, I cut open a vanilla pod and scrape all the black gooey seeds into the custard making sure to disperse them as best I can.
As for chilling overnight I wish I planned that far ahead. Normally I make them that day, chill them until it is time to prepare the rest of the dinner, brûlée them, pop them back in the fridge and hope my guests don't eat too fast so they have time to cool down again.
Crème Brûlée
4 egg yolks 1 tablespoon caster sugar 2 x 284 ml (10 fl oz) cartons double cream few drops of vanilla essence
To finish: 50 g (2 oz) caster sugar
Beat the egg yolks and sugar together. Warm the cream in a double saucepan, or bowl over a pan of simmering water. Carefully stir in the egg mixture. Continue cooking gently, stirring constantly, until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add the vanilla essence.
Strain into 6 ramekin dishes and place in a roasting pan, containing 2.5 cm (1 inch) water. Place in a preheated cool oven, 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1, for 30 to 40 minutes.
Remove the dishes from the pan, cool then chill in the refrigerator overnight.
To finish: Sprinkle evenly with sugar. Place under a preheated hot grill until the sugar has caramelized. Cool, then chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours before serving.
Pictures from Le Gavroche
I might have taken a leaf out of Rosa's book or Welshcake Limoncello's and taken photos of each exquisite course but I only had my camera phone with me which cannot handle close-ups. I had forgotten that I had taken these piccies when I did yesterday's post so here are a couple to go with that...
Mary Discusses Her Brooch
Amanda Raises Her Glass
Pete at Le Gavroche
Dining Room at Le Gavroche
Those that wanted could have a tour of the kitchen and be amazed that so much world class food could emanate from such a tiny space. We did that in previous years so left it for other diners to have a peer round.
Daffodil Dining Club at Le Gavroche (2006)
Yet again at this time of year we joined John Amiry and 80 or so like-minded gourmands gourmets at the Michelin Starred "Le Gavroche" for a long lunch of the finest food and wine. We started at 12:30 and they chucked us out at 5:00.
Les Vins
Le Menu
Chateau de Sours 2004 Bordeaux Blanc
Coquilles St. Jacques Pochee Parfumee au Gingembre
Carton Blanc 1998 Domaine Chandon de Briailles
Gratin de Langoustines et Escargots au Persil et Pimet d 'Espelette
Domaine Gavoty "Cuvee Clarendon" 2005 Cote de Provence
Fricassee de St. Pierre façon Bouillabaisse
Gewurztraminer "Blason de France Vendange Tardive" 1998 Leon Beyer
Escalope de Foie Gras Chaud et Pastilla a la Cannelle
Clos des Litanies 1996 Pomerol
Noisette de Chevreuil a la Sauce Poivrade et Airelles
Le Pinacle Syrah 2002 Domaine Sainte Rose
Le Plateau de Fromages Affines
Vin de Constance 2001 Klein Constantia
Christmas Pudding Cafe, Petits Fours et Mince Pies
They have learned from previous years and been more restrained on the wine pouring. Last year they topped up my white wine glasses so often on the earlier courses that by the time we got to the meat and red wines I was in no fit state to fully appreciate the quality of what I was consuming. This year there were more courses with matching wines but more restraint in the measures. I enjoyed the meal more and did not need to go for a siesta when we got home.
Monday, July 03, 2006: Our first dinner party
During the day two 'lads' came and grouted all the pathways laid by Billy "No Mates" last week. This past week we have had almost daily visits from Daniele (architect) and Donato (foreman) who is directing the lads. The various bits of wiring, plumbing and plastering continue but not at the same frenetic pace of last Monday.
In the evening we had our very first dinner party in Puglia. Christine, a tutor on Mary's NLP course, lives the far side of Ostuni about 15 m (24 km) away. So we called and invited her and husband John over for supper. John's GPS was able to confirm our exact location as N 40° 45' 912", E 17° 22' 604" and elevation as 480mt above sea level.
[thanks to wikipedia for the picture]
We have a mystery tree in our garden. We could identify all the other trees (olive, green fig, black fig, almond, apple) but not this last tree. I could not believe a farmer would plant anything unless it had some utility value. John was able to identify it for us as a white mulberry. The grub-like fruits are very tasty and would, I imagine, make a delicious crumble or flan.
We served a simple supper of cherry tomato, mozzarella and rocket (US: rucola) followed by grilled chicken (marinated in olive oil, lemon juice and garlic), fried mushrooms and peppers and capers. We chatted away till midnight when our guest left with a return visit arranged for Thursday.
Figs from our garden We have twelve olive trees, four fig trees, one pomegranate and a couple of as-yet-unidentified trees. These fruits were picked on Sunday and the black figs were absolutely ripened to perfection, juicy and sweet. Enough to make me change my mind about figs.
Fifty-something male IT consultant living and working in London. Married to Mary and enjoying a dinky lifestyle in one of the greatest cities in the world. I do not blog political commentary, my work or my inner emotional life. That leaves my life really and the world around me. Enjoy it or not not as you wish. For more see my Blog Manifesto